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3D Printing:
My first 3D printer, assembling and setup


Contents:

  1. Introduction, unpacking and assembling sliders
  2. Installing the pillars on the bottom frame
  3. Installing the top limit switches and the top frame
  4. Installing the timing belts
  5. Installing the display and the filament feeder motor
  6. Installing electric devices and cables
  7. Adjusting the print bed
  8. Test print and test of Z-axis offset
  9. Installing CP2102 drivers and Cura
  10. Upload new 3D printer software - Marlin
  11. Mechanical calibration
  12. Setup Marlin 1.1.19
  13. Setup/Calibrate Marlin 2.0.0
  14. Tweaks
  15. Temperature P.I.D. optimizing
  16. Calibrate horizontal expansion
  17. Wind shield
  18. Replacing the nozzle heater
  19. To be continued

Note:
I take no responsibility or liability for what are written here, you use the information at your own risk!


13, Setup Marlin 2.0.0:

After I had moved over to the Marlin 2.0.0 version I got a lot of new problems, not so much the 3D-printer itself but the software Arduino I use to compile the Marlin code and upload it to the 3D-printer. I'm not used with Arduino but lucky me to have my friend Lars who is an expert on this software. It looks that the problem arise because it's a new Marlin version. A lot of skilled people working on this and it will soon be solved. If you can't wait I will try to explain how I got it to work.

Link to Arduino site:

But first I do some mechanical check and adjustment of the printer frame.


Checking the printer frame:

3D printer, assembling and setup

I have read and also understand that it's very critical that the printer frame is assembled correctly. Check that the pillar is all the way to the bottom in its mechanical holder, the middle arrow. And at the two outer arrows that there are no gaps. You can see that I have a small gap at the upper arrow, about a half mm.


3D printer, assembling and setup

The pillar was okay, but I will try to adjust the frame to get away of the gap. Eight screws hold it together at each corner.


3D printer, assembling and setup

I do as I do when repairing my car, do it simple with limited tools available. I put a strap around the bottom frame.


3D printer, assembling and setup

Put a big screwdriver inside the strap and twist it around hard until the gaps disappears. But first I have loosen the screws a bit, 4 at each time, don't unscrew them just loosen, if too much the nut inside the frame can get loose, than the hole frame must be taken apart. I got the gap to be a little bit smaller but not eliminated. Of course it had been much wiser to do this more carefully already from the beginning.


Setup the Marlin configuration file for version 2.0.0:

When I did this the latest Marlin version 2.0.7.2. When opened in Arduino it was not possible to compile it. I go back to version 2.0.0 after some struggle I got it to compile, read: Lars got it to work. GitHub and Arduino are something that I'm not understand fully yet.

Useful links:


3D printer, assembling and setup

From Marlin you download the Marlin code and example files. I my case I found my configuration files in the Delta library. Just copy the two files and overwrite the two original in the Marlin library.


3D printer, assembling and setup

This is the reason that it is not possible to compile, there is a misspelling in the configration_adv.h file. Correct the line according above screen dump.

Look at bugfix 2.0.x also:


3D printer, assembling and setup

For my Kossel delta Linear Plus I have to change the setting in the configuration.h file.


3D printer, assembling and setup

In the same file I also changed the maximum of print radius to 114 mm. Save a copy of both files in your own library as a backup.

Auto calibration and probe offset:

Follow these instructions carefully:

In short what I do when auto level calibrate:

  1. Install the probe
  2. Menu > Configuration > Delta Calibration > Auto Calibration (waiting for a click as okay to proceed)
  3. Menu > Configuration > Delta Calibration > Store Settings
  4. Menu > Move > Auto Home
  5. Remove the probe !
Auto level probe

The probe is magnetic connected to the nozzle head. It adds something about 16 mm to the height which much be subtracted in the calibration.

In short what I do when set the probe offset:
Note: Without the probe installed !

  1. Menu > Motion > Move Axis > Soft End stops: OFF
  2. Menu > Motion > Move > Auto Home
  3. Menu > Motion > Move Axis > Move Z axis > 10 mm or 1 mm or 0.1 mm (small steps when close to the bed)
  4. Do paper test when it's close to the bed
  5. Read Z when just touch the paper (-0.4 mm, this is my 3D-printer)
  6. Change Probe settings
  7. Menu > Configuration > Z probe setting: -15.99 (add to this)
  8. Menu > Configuration > Z probe setting: -16.39 (this is my 3D-printer)
  9. Menu > Configuration > Store Settings
  10. Menu > Motion > Move > Auto Home
  11. Menu > Motion > Move Axis > Move Z axis (until it touch the paper)
  12. Read Z when just touch the paper (if it is 0 +- 0.05 it's okay)
  13. Menu > Motion > Move Axis > Soft End stops: ON
  14. Menu > Configuration > Store Settings
  15. Menu > Motion > Move > Auto Home
Z height paper test

Paper test, move the nozzle slower closer to the bed, move the paper back and forth to feel just when the nozzle hit the bed.

Z value

Read the Z position when the nozzle just hit the bed according to the paper test. Correct earlier Z offset value. Example if it was -15.99: -15.99 + (-0.4) = -16.39. Correct Z offset and store new value.


Extruder calibration:

I have read that the extruder must feed the filament in very accurate steps, a calibration could be good. I used the following links to find the calibration value for steps per mm. Changed it in the calibration.h file.

Extruder calibration links:

I send the command from Cura slicer software that I use. To do that use must have a connection through the UBS port to the 3D printer.

If you get problem there is a driver and instruction here:

Useful links:


My first test print:

3D printer, assembling and setup

I use PLA filament of size 1.75 mm. I set the nozzle temperature to 200 Celsius degrees and the print bed to 60 Celsius degrees. In this case it's a very small 3D device I want to print and let the Cura send the commands direct to the printer. With a bigger 3D print object I think it's better to save the printer file to a SD card and insert it into the printer direct. Then you have no need of having the PC running many hours during the printing.


3D printer, assembling and setup

So exiting to see something come out from the 3D printer.


3D printer, assembling and setup

Finished after less than a hour.


3D printer, assembling and setup

I used the tool that was included with the 3D printer, easy to get it away from the print bed.


3D printer, assembling and setup

When checking the size of inner ring of 80 mm. Amazing, it's about 79.95 mm, only a difference of 0.05 mm !


3D printer, assembling and setup

Looking at the small details, I have no experience from 3D printing and couldn't judge if this is good or not. But it impress to me.

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