Chrysler Crossfire
Wheel Camber, Caster and Toe-in angles

This is one information page of my collection of what I have repaired on my Crossfire.

Note:
You should not do any repair on your car if you don't have enough experience and knowledge! You use this information at your own risk! Don't blame me if something goes wrong.

Content:

• Main Content Chrysler Crossfire DIY
  1. Wheel Camber angles
  2. DIY Toe-in angle meter
  3. First Toe-in measurement
  4. Adjustment of front Toe-in
  5. To be continued

Crossfire share most of it's chassis parts with Mercedes SLK R170 with the 320 engine.

Wheel camber, caster and toe in/out angles

This three angles control your wheels, they have to be adjusted properly to give the car a good handling and low tire wear.

You can get more information from the Wikipedia page here:

• https://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/ Wheel alignment

1, Wheel Camber angles:

Wheel alignment according to Chrysler Crossfire Service Repair manual, page 28 to 37.

How to do an easy check of camber angle:

Here is an easy way to get a rough estimation of your car camber angles (there are many other ways too). You just have to use a spirit level and a calculator. Find a parking lot that's in level where you can do this. Before do this, check the tire air pressure and only brake the car soft when parking, otherwise the angles can change.

Hold the spirit level against the wheel rim. Measure the L distance in the picture above. If your spirit level is too short or long you can cut a piece of wood of the proper length to line up to the wheel rim and then put the spirit level against this piece of wood. Then your L is the length of the piece of wood. In my case it's a little bit complicated because I have 18" front wheels and 19" rear wheels.

You can do it this way, but much easier with a digital angle meter.

Measurment with a digital angle meter:

Angle measurement with a digital angle instrument. It has a magnet on one side and I attached it to the disc brake:

Camber front left = -2,60o	Camber front right = -2,40o
Camber rear left = -1,10o	Camber rear right = -0,85o

The floor in the garage is a bit tilted down to the right which these figures are not corrected for.

Update:
One more measurement, this time I compensated for the tilted garage floor. This time I also have the new bigger rear wheels installed:

I got the limits from here: JLtechno.com .

I feel that I don't have the precision I need to do any adjustment and let it be where it's now. The rear are between the limits, in front I don't have any unusual wear. At last I did a measurement of the height at the rear end of the car. There is a difference of 8 mm where the right side is the lower. That's a very little difference, it can be calibrated out with a 5 mm thick rubber pad between the spring and the lower arm, they can be ordered in steps of 5 mm thickness. That is at least what I have read how they do it.

Update:
After I replaced the rear lower rubber bushings it's interesting to see if the camber angles changed:

The I set a jack under the front rear wheel to get it in level at rear and did a new measurement:

Now it's perfect, maybe it's because of the weak front bushings, the springs looks okay. Have to check it later more carefully. But first I will replace the lower front bushings and then I replace the front springs as well.