Chrysler Crossfire
Anti theft alarm

This is one information page of my collection of what I have repaired on my Crossfire.

Note:
You should not do any repair on your car if you don't have enough experience and knowledge! You use this information at your own risk! Don't blame me if something goes wrong.

Content:

• Main Content Chrysler Crossfire DIY
  1. Anti theft alarm
  2. Control unit
  3. Schematics and error codes
  4. Hood switch
  5. Glow compartment switch
  6. Door switches
  7. Central Locking Pump, examination
  8. Central Locking Pump, incoming cables
  9. To be continued

Note:
You have to work with the electric parts. Disconnect the battery, the negative terminal ! When disconnecting the battery the alarm and radio will be reset, be sure to have any codes that's needed!

8, Central Locking Pump, incoming cables:

Now I can do some electric measurement on the device. Note: You must be an enigineer and know what you doing, othervise it can be dangerous and you can destroy your car.

C2 and C4 connector:

First test is to see if I have power to the Central Locking Pump. I do this measurement when I still have the battery connected and must be very careful to not do any shortcuts. The minus (-) of the voltmeter is connected to the car's ground in the chassi. The positive of the voltmeter (+) I have a very thin test probe that I can connect to each of these pins (terminals).

Central Locking Pump

* measurement

Compare what's written into the service manual. Can't see any problem here.

C1 and C3 connector:

To these measurements I disconnect the battery, always the negative (-) and place the cable aside so it doesn't reach the battery terminal. The measurements I do here is resistance, Ohm.

The two multi pole connectors. Each has 18 pins and you can see the pin number on the black one. The cables comes in from left. The white terminal is the C1 and the black is C3.

At the end of each connector I can see how the wires are connected, I do a check. The electric schematic in the service manual is the same.

Liftgate sensor:

You do this measurements in the trunk and then the liftgate must be open.

You can move the mechanical lock arm to the left.

Then it's locked even if the liftgate is open. A simulation that the car is locked. Open again with the relase handle.

Resistance measurements on C1 and C3 connector's cables:

Closed= doors, tailgate, hood and glow box are closed. IE the switch is open. When any of them open the switch/sensor close.

Central Locking Pump

The liftgate switch/sensor looks to be broken.